This past summer, we had the incredible opportunity to visit Montalcino in Tuscany, Italy. Nestled in the heart of the country, Montalcino lies between Florence and Rome, and about 50km inland from the Tyrrhenian Sea. This charming region situated on a series of rolling hills at an altitude of about 400-600 meters above sea level, making it a picturesque and strategic location for winemaking. The vineyards in the region benefit from a unique microclimate that combines hot, dry summers and cool, breezy winters—perfect conditions for growing the Sangiovese grape, particularly the famed Sangiovese Grosso used to make Brunello di Montalcino.

This region is known for producing some of the best red wines in Italy, primary Brunello di Montalcino! The wines here are bold, full-bodied, and age-worthy, with magnificent depth that reflects the unique terroir.

We visited two incredible wineries, Poggio Antico and Casanova di Neri!

Poggio Antico

We began our visit in Montalcino with a tasting and tour of winery located on the highest hills of the region, Poggio Antico, which translates to "ancient hill" in English. The location of the vineyards on this hill are quite special for a few reasons: the altitude, the influence of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the minimality of the soils.

Montalcino’s geography plays a significant role in the quality of its wines. The diverse soils, ranging from sandy clay to rocky limestone, give the grapes a distinct character, while the varying elevations allow for the development of complex flavor profiles. The cool nights and warm days create a long, balanced ripening season, allowing the grapes to achieve optimal sugar levels and acidity—crucial for producing wines with great aging potential. Furthermore, some of the vineyards grow on volcanic soils from Monte Amiata, an ancient volcano, which adds an extra layer of mineral complexity to the wines.

We had a tour of the estate, which included my favorite part - the cellars! Here is where we witnessed the magic that makes Brunello di Montalcino so special. To be classified as Brunello di Montalcino, a wine must meet specific requirements set by the regulations of the Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG), the highest level of Italian wine classification. Here are a few key requirements.

• The wines must be made of 100% Sangiovese grapes, specifically the Sangiovese Grosso clone, which is known locally as Brunello.
• The grapes must be grown within the Montalcino area within the approved boundaries for Brunello production.
• The wine mist also undergo a mandatory aging process!
  • Brunello di Montalcino must be aged for a minimum of 5 years before release.
  • Riserva wines (which are produced in exceptional vintages) must be aged for at least 6 years.
  • A minimum of 2 years must be spent in oak barrels, with the rest of the aging taking place in bottles. But we found that the estates we visited tend to age the wines in the barrels a bit longer than 2 years to really develop a complex flavor!

As we stood amidst rows upon rows of beautiful oak barrels, all filled with "sleeping" wine quietly aging, it was hard not to be awestruck by the patience and care that goes into crafting a truly remarkable Brunello.

Afterward, we were treated to a delightful tasting of 7 wines in the estate’s elegant tasting room. We were fortunate to sample a diverse selection of their wines, ranging from a Rosso di Montalcino, a younger, more approachable version of Brunello, to a sophisticated Riserva. Each wine was a unique expression of the estate’s craftsmanship. One of the highlights was tasting their exclusive estate rosé, which was absolutely divine, especially on a Tuscan day. We also learned that the estate grows olives and produces a limited quantity of olive oil!

After our tour and tasting, which lasted about two hours, we made our way into the heart of Montalcino for a quick lunch. The town itself is a UNESCO world heritage site. It truly felt like we were stepping back in time as we went down the narrow streets.

We were on a bit of a time crunch to get to our next appointment, but we found the perfect outdoor table at Enoteca Grotta del Brunello to grab a small plate. We enjoyed a refreshing glass of the local Rosso di Montalcino, paired beautifully with a light antipasto of melon and prosciutto! This was the ideal way to take in the beauty of the ancient streets while enjoying a local snack!

Casanova di Neri

Next, we headed just a few minutes west of town to Casanova di Neri for a private afternoon tasting and tour, and it quickly became one of the best wine experiences we’ve ever had! Our guide, Simona, was the perfect person to bring us into the heart of the estate. Her warmth and knowledge made us feel like we were not only experiencing the wines, but also gaining a deeper connection to the Neri family’s story. This was an experience that left us with a deep appreciation for the Neri family and their incredible contribution to the art of winemaking in Montalcino.

From the moment we arrived, it was easy to see why this estate is so special. As we toured the vineyards and cellars, we learned about the incredible dedication that has been passed down through generations. The estate’s winemaking traditions have been nurtured by the Neri family, with Giacomo Neri at the helm, and it felt as if we were walking in the footsteps of the family themselves, sharing in their passion for the land and the wines they produce. We also learned that additions to the wineries production facilities have been specifically designed to "blend" in with the landscape.

The intimate atmosphere of the estate and the way the wines spoke to their history made it clear that winemaking here is more than just a business—it’s a family legacy. The Neri family’s commitment to quality, innovation, and tradition was evident in every detail, and we could truly feel their connection to the land and the generations that came before them. Tasting the wines felt like being invited into their home, and it was clear that each bottle tells the story of their dedication and love for winemaking.

Where We Stayed

We chose to stay at the charming, traditional Tuscan farm and vineyard, Il Cocco! This cozy, farmhouse-style retreat had just a few bedrooms, creating an authentic atmosphere. It felt like a true slice of Tuscany, complete with a nonna preparing a homemade meal in the kitchen for guests, a friendly vineyard dog, and farm equipment scattered across the property. We could step right out into the vineyards and take in the breathtaking view of the rolling hills rising behind the vine rows. After returning from Casanova di Neri, we enjoyed a delicious dinner paired with a bottle of wine from the estate itself. Before heading to bed, we couldn't resist sneaking out to the vineyards one last time to gaze up at the starlit sky. The sounds of the surrounding wildlife were a magical, unforgettable soundtrack to a perfect evening.

We woke up to a charming, farm style breakfast spread in the dining room before packing up and heading to Chianti!