When it comes to white wines, Germany has certainly made its mark by consistently producing some of the world’s best Rieslings. This grape variety thrives in Germany’s cool climate and short growing season, resulting in wines with high acidity and low alcohol content that are easy to enjoy. Riesling is a remarkable white grape because it has a wide variety of expressions. Depending on when the grape is picked, the resulting wine can range from dry to sweet. It can also be aged remarkably well, making it a popular choice among wine collectors.

The Regions

The wine regions in Germany are located in the southwest corner of the country, near the borders of France and Luxembourg. The most popular region is Mosel, named because it is along the banks of the River Mosel. Riesling is very popular here and the highest quality vines grow on the steep slopes in nutrient rich soil from the river. Rheingau is located to the east of Mosel and is along the north shore of the River Rhine. Riesling is popular in this region as well and the wines have a heavier body than wines produced in Mosel. Across the river to the south is Germany’s largest wine growing region, Rheinhessen. This region produces Riesling, but is also known for making quality wine from the Müller-Thurgau variety as well. Directly south of Rheinhessen is Pfalz, which borders the French wine region of Alsace. There are a variety of white grapes grown here including Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc). Pfalz is also known for producing wine made from Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) and Dornfelder varieties, the later of which is said to be young and juicy, similar to a Beaujolais.

While it is important to know the regions, the key component to understanding German wine is how they are organized. Wine labeling in Germany is quite complex, and it is essential to understand the key terms to make informed choices when selecting wines from this country. There are two main labeling systems and I have put together a brief guide to summarize the key concepts to know! Scroll to the bottom of this article for more information.

This month, I picked up two wines with labels that are nearly identical. But this brings up a very important point about old world labeling where one word can often make the difference in taste, price, and quality. I specifically selected these two wines to compare Kabinett and Spätlese styles. Both wines are from the same producer and have the same vintage. It is important to note however that the grapes came from different vineyards.

Alright! Onto the tasting. Both wines were purchased from Total Wine in Natick, MA.

Riesling Kabinett

On the nose, I smelled a delicate mix of citrus, gooseberry, honeysuckle blossoms and a hint of petrol, an indicative trait of Riesling. On the palate, the notes of citrus opened into lemon and green apple, which lingered onto the long-lasting finish.

I was pleasantly surprised by the medium-dry sweetness of the wine, which gave it a bit more mouthfeel and roundness than I expected. The acidity added a refreshing crispness to each sip and the low alcohol made it easy to enjoy without feeling too heavy.

My Rating 4 / 5 - the wine reflected the label with notes of freshly picked, tart fruits, however, wish that the label had included that it was halbtrocken (off-dry). This wine was also lacking a trait that really "wow'd" me.

The Details
Sweetness: Medium Dry
Vintage: 2021
Alcohol: 7.5%
Label: Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinette
Producer: Adolph Mueller
Region: Mosel, Germany
Varietals: 100% Riesling
Price: $17

Riesling Spätlese

As expected, there were notes of petrol in the Spätlese, although they were more restrained and subtle than the Kabinett. There was also a subtle herbaceousness, which added an intriguing layer of complexity to the wine’s aroma. The medium-dry body and low alcohol were comparable to the Kabinett, which I was not expecting as these grapes were harvested later in the season.

Given that, the notes that emerged on the palate were different from the Kabinett. I tasted notes of yellow apple, pear, and restrained citrus, which are signs of longer aging on the vine before harvesting. These traits give the wine a unique character that sets it apart.

My Rating 4 / 5 - again, this wine hit all the correct notes for me, but it was missing something that really made my jaw drop! The finish was long and flavorful.

The Details
Sweetness: Medium Dry
Vintage: 2021
Alcohol: 7.5%
Label: Piesporter Michelsberg Riesling Spätlese
Producer: Adolph Mueller
Region: Mosel, Germany
Varietals: 100% Riesling
Price: $15

Navigating the German Wine Labeling System

The nuances in the labeling are key to understanding the style and quality of wine produced in Germany. The system is quite complex and summarizing all the nitty-gritty details would require an expert in German wine. The figure below provides a broad overview of the labeling systems so that you can better understand the wines behind the label, which are in some cases, very similar! In general, the key thing to remember is… if the label has a very long name, it is probably sweeter, more complex and more expensive!

View the German Wine Label Guide by clicking on this link!

The traditional system is composed of three main designations of style that are organized according to ripeness and sweetness of the wine. The first, most basic style of wine is Landwein or table wine. One level above Landwein is Qualitätswein. In this category, the wines are labeled according to their sweetness with each level permitting a higher quantity of residual sugar (RS) in grams per liter (g/l). The last level of specification for traditional German labeling is Prädikatswein which is further broken down into 6 “Pradikat.” The Pradikat indicate when the grapes are harvested which is directly related to how ripe the grapes are.

Kabinett (CAB-i-net) wines are composed of the first grapes that are harvested. The wine styles can range from trocken (dry) to halbtrocken (off-dry). These wines have had the least amount of time to ripen on the vine and therefore retain the least amount of sugar content. The next grapes to be harvested are Spatätlese (SCHPATE-lay-zeh), a word which translates to “late harvest”. These grapes are fully ripened and therefore have a fuller body and greater fruit intensity than Kabinett wines. In select years, winemakers will produce Auslese (OWSCH-lay-zeh) wines, which are made from very ripe grapes that are selectively harvested.

The remaining three Pradikat are always sweet because the grapes have been harvested with Botrytis, otherwise known as Noble Rot. Don’t worry! Wines made with Botrytis are totally safe to consume and are some of the most sought-after wines in the world. Botrytis is a fungus that penetrates the grape’s skin and causes the fruit to partially dehydrate, concentrating the level of sugar and flavors while leaving behind a high level of acidity. Producing wines at this level is difficult because the climate conditions must be perfect to result in a harvest with Botrytis. These harvests also come with a high level of risk as the grapes may become rotten and unusable. Grapes used to make Beerenauslese (Bear-en-OWSCH-lay-zeh) and Trockenbeerenauslese (TRAUK-en-bear-en-OWSCH-lay-zeh) are hand harvested. TBA’s are only made in exceptional growing years, where the grapes are shriveled to raisins before harvesting.

The last, and most unique, Pradikat designation is Eiswein (ICE-vine), which has the most intuitive label. Grapes used to make these wines are harvested after they have been naturally frozen on the vine. These grapes are very ripe and often harvested with Botrytis. These wines can age very well because of the high levels of acidity and should be enjoyed on their own or during dessert!

It is important to note that Prädikatswein wines can be labeled with the ripeness and the sweetness. For example, if a wine is labeled as a Trocken Kabinett, expect a dry wine with young flavor notes compared to a Halbtrocken Kabinett, which will be off-dry!

The second labeling system you may come across is the Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweinguter (VDP), or the modern system. Wines labeled with this system are indicated by an eagle bearing a cluster of grapes. When I went to the store, I found a few wines with the eagle! These wines are categorized according to quality, similarly to the wine labeling system in France. High quality wines have desirable growing conditions, which allow for wines that express the region to its fullest and have “GG” on the label.

This labeling system can be confusing but is very helpful once you understand the basics! German Rieslings offer an excellent opportunity to tune your palate to the subtle nuances that come with aging on the vine.

Have you noticed a difference in the body, sweetness or key flavors between different Pradikat categories?! Let me know in the comments. :)